The Joy of Cooking is for Vegetarians Too
24 February 2009
Now, before I delve into the lush and leafy green world of vegetarian cookbooks, I must first give props to one of my best companions, both in the kitchen and on the couch, since before I was a vegetarian.
A friend first gave me and my then-boyfriend (now-husband) a 1963 paperback edition of The Joy of Cooking when we first left for university and moved in together in 1994. Even as a meat-eater, there were hundreds and hundreds of recipes in the 1963 Joy which I could never use, not the least of which was “Green Turtle Soup” (omitted from later versions because the main ingredient is endangered.) Yet the care and conversational style of its creators, Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker, made it a classic how-to cookbook to own, read and reference over the years. My copy has pages and sections falling out of it which are held together by rubber bands, but I still keep it because, well, if I ever come to needing cheerful instruction on how to skin and cook a squirrel, I will know where to turn.
The quintessential Joy is still my mother’s Joy: the 1975 version that is lauded as a cookbook masterpiece. However, the Joy which I use in my kitchen today is the 1997 version, which is roundly criticized by purists because it leaves out many of the original recipes and adds many which are non-traditional and ghost-written by expert chefs. Not to mention that it departs from the original Joy’s greatest attribute –Rombauer’s voice. However, when I became vegetarian in 2000, I discovered that my 1997 Joy offers not only an abundance of vegetable but also vegetarian recipes, including an authentic assortment of ethnic foods (found especially in the wonderful “Little Dishes” section) and a section newly devoted to “Beans and Tofu.” I still marvel at the ease and reliability of these expertly crafted recipes. Among my favourites: Dairy-free Chocolate Cake, Sweet Potato and Peanut Stew, and Roasted Vegetable Lasagne.
Now, the edition that I want to get my hands on is the 2006 75th Anniversary Edition of Joy of Cooking, which contains 4,500 recipes, and allegedly restores Rombauer’s dearly missed conversational style to the book. I can think of three compelling reasons for why a vegetarian should also want at least one version of the Joy for their vegetarian cookbooks collection:
Firstly, the book is roundly acclaimed as the one all-purpose cookbook that no cook can live without. I have seen the recent criticism that the recipes in the Joy are not low-fat. But as one blogger points out, the study was based on only 18 recipes that are mainly meat-based and desserts. As a vegetarian, your diet is naturally lower in fat, and so a few high-calorie recipes should hardly intimidate you. Besides, the Joy is a classic because it reflects and rejoices in the modern, standard American diet –it has never been in the business of changing it.
Secondly, of the 38 chapters in my 1997 edition, only five of those are dedicated to meat (Shellfish, Fish, Poultry, Game and Meat,) twelve topics are about baking and desserts (Breads, Pancakes, Cookies, Cakes, etc.,) and the remaining chapters are mostly vegetarian (Soups, Eggs, Salads, Grains, Beans & Tofu, Pasta, Dumplings & Noodles, Vegetables, Fruits, etc.) The Joy also includes indispensible, non-recipe sections on Diet, Lifestyle & Health, Entertaining, Cooking Methods, and the all-important, alchemic end-chapter: Know Your Ingredients!
Thirdly, I am fascinated to learn (albeit non-cited) that Rombauer first published the Joy of Cooking in 1931, a year after her husband committed suicide. So not only is the Joy a part of US history through its chronicle of American food and enterprise, but it is also a story of personal and family triumph. Rombauer should be further applauded for writing a cookbook that confers delight and dignity onto the largely female domestic role. Her tone of diligence and frugality during the Depression-era has renewed importance in our own age of economic struggle.
So the Joy of Cooking is a great asset to any cook, and it belongs in your essential vegetarian cookbooks collection. The Joy is highly acclaimed and offers an abundance of easy, dependable, vegan and vegetarian recipes. It is a part of US history, and it is the voice and story of a great cook and resilient character. Now how can you possibly do without this book?




